I have a tailight fuse that is a 15 amp. I tried to change it and it worked for a short time and than blew o?

for a short time before blowing out. Tried to replace it again and saw a spark. Light still doesn't work. Any suggestions on how to fix this?I have a tailight fuse that is a 15 amp. I tried to change it and it worked for a short time and than blew o?You have a short circuit.



Possible that some wiring's insulation has rubbed down and is grounding itself. It's also probably either dangling or not in contact with the chassis at all times, which is why it worked briefly, but once the wiring moved a little, it contacted ground again.



Only way to figure it out is to follow the wires until you find the short circuit.I have a tailight fuse that is a 15 amp. I tried to change it and it worked for a short time and than blew o?Do not just keep putting in fuses. You have a bad wire some place. Most likely at the tail light housing. Have a tech look at it.I have a tailight fuse that is a 15 amp. I tried to change it and it worked for a short time and than blew o?You most likely have a %26quot;short%26quot; (meaning that power is taking the %26quot;shortcut%26quot;to grounding on the (frame of) vehicle!



Have you changed light bulbs lately? I have seen %26quot;single element%26quot; bulbs stuck in %26quot;double element%26quot; sockets, --this makes the plarking and instrument lights come on too (if ti is a %26quot;combo.-TS/stop %26amp; tail light bulb). I have aslo see single element bulbs (which have both sides of connecrtioon isolated from the case of bulb socket), - you put a single element-single contact bulb in this one,-- and it shorts the wiring directly to ground. They used this setup in Fords for years, - but that all went out with the non-bayonet (locking bulbs).



Now here is how you can check to find out were the shorts are (safely), - go buy a test light (costs less than $5 at any car parts supplier), - or make you own, -- if it is the little %26quot;plug in %26quot; fuse that has the two little flat connectors on it, - you can brake the fuse in half and get all the plastic off, and then solder a couple wires on %26quot;connectors%26quot;'-plug into the two connectors in fusebox, and then hook up a bulb to the wires (I like an old headlight that has one element burned out)-- when you find and %26quot;remove%26quot; the short, - the bulb will go out (or become dimmer depending on how many other bulbs are in %26quot;the line%26quot;!-- If you wiggle it, and it has a bare wire, every time it hits the body, it will make the light come back on (or blink if only monentary)! Of course you may have to have the tail lights turned on to check this out! --- if you have a headlight bulb, when the %26quot;short%26quot; is taken out-, both the bulb, and the tail lights will burn %26quot;dimmer%26quot; than usual, as they are %26quot;splitting the voltage%26quot; available. Remember all the other %26quot;parking and sidelights%26quot; are on this circuit also, - so don't neglect to check for shorts around these either! Note:::: if the little test light from store is used, it may burn a little less brightly, but tail lights may remain very dim, because the amount of %26quot;power%26quot; going through the %26quot;little%26quot; bulb, is no where near equal to the tail/park/sidelight circuit! However when the circuit is shorted, it sill will burn brightly!



In checking for shorts this way there is no risk of %26quot;burning wires%26quot;, or %26quot;setting your car on fire%26quot; accidentally while looking for shorts!!iI have a tailight fuse that is a 15 amp. I tried to change it and it worked for a short time and than blew o?You have a short to ground in that system. check for clean tight connections.I have a tailight fuse that is a 15 amp. I tried to change it and it worked for a short time and than blew o?What kind of vehicle is this????I have a tailight fuse that is a 15 amp. I tried to change it and it worked for a short time and than blew o?you got a short isolate to find where either wire or light socket